Montasola: An Individual Ceramic workshop with Magda Toth

Montasola: A Hidden Gem in Italy's Lazio Region

Montasola is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Italy’s Lazio region. I landed at Rome Fiumicino Airport. After an hour-long train journey, I arrived in Poggio Mirteto. Magda collected me, and after a half-hour drive, we parked at the foot of the Borgo (castle).

Exploring Montasola

Inside the town, there are no cars. You walk from place to place through a maze of alleyways, steps, and piazzi. The morning opened with a wide blue sky, revealing a stunning view over the Sabina mountains.

One of Montasola’s greatest draws is its network of scenic hiking trails. I did not have time for those, but I made a mental note to recommend the trip to my son, who loves to hike. We walked around the town and down to the park, where we had breakfast. The park features a chapel and an amphitheatre where the local amdram company often performs. It also hosts concerts and performances against a backdrop of mountains and fragrant cypress trees.

At the end of April, the sun is warm during the day. You only need a jersey in the shade. I enjoyed the pizza bread filled with mortadella and mozzarella, getting used to the musicality of the Italian language.

Magda's house is located at 1 Via St Michele Arcangelo. Opposite her door is the church of Santi Pietro e Tomasso. Next door is a bar where we could order a continental breakfast for the next day. Further down the street is the Municipale, a photographic gallery and museum, and the library. Culture seems to spiral around her home, which includes her ceramic studio on one of the lower levels of her multi-leveled house.

Celebrating Italian Culture

We spent Saturday afternoon at Montepiano, the ranch of Letizia, whose 70th birthday we celebrated with a large group of friends. The food, wine, and company made for a delightful experience. The party quiz added to the fun.

That same night, we began working on my project. The goal was to transfer a 2D image from my film, Axis Mundi, onto the concave walls of two clay semi-spheres prepared by Magdi. We accomplished this by printing the paint onto thin paper and then painting the trees by hand. I had experimented with 3D photography at home, but using imagination proved to be the best tool.

The semi-spheres needed to be fired at 960 degrees in the kiln for eight hours.

On Day 2, we traveled to the nearby town of Rochetta, a less developed "borgo" town. We walked through the river Aia in our crocs, admiring waterfalls and reflections on the washed-out rock formations.

Returning to the studio, we lifted the objects from the kiln and glazed them. They required another firing at 1180 degrees Celsius for nearly ten hours.

Visiting Letizia at her house was a delight. She provided me with the text of her entire walking tour, about 13 pages to read in Italian. Letizia's family has lived here for generations. She owns many buildings, runs Airbnbs, acts as a tourist guide in the town, and produces wonderful lavender essential oils and olive oil on her land. A woman of stature, she said goodbye with a kiss on both cheeks, the Italian way.

Hiking Opportunities

For walkers, there are many opportunities:

The Monte Gennaro Trail

This trail leads you up Monte Gennaro, the highest peak in the area. The hike takes about three hours round trip and rewards you with sweeping views of the Sabina countryside. Along the way, you pass ancient stone walls and wildflowers that bloom in spring. Early morning is the best time to start, as the air is fresh and the light is soft.

The Olive Grove Path

For a more relaxed experience, the Olive Grove Path offers a peaceful walk through centuries-old olive trees. This trail is perfect for photography enthusiasts and nature lovers. You can stop at local farms to learn about olive oil production and even sample fresh oil pressed on-site.

Walking Tours in Town

Montasola itself is a living museum of history and tradition. Narrow cobblestone streets, ancient churches, a medieval hospital, and a pharmacy, along with stone houses, inspired stories set here long ago.

If I stayed longer, I would take out my drawing book. There are many little nooks where one could sit in the shade and draw the ancient stone buildings. The contrast of light and dark offers many opportunities for photography.

An old palace is being refurbished to become la Casa di Cultura. I hope to return one day, either alone or with a group of writers, for a writing retreat.

Artist Workshops

Magda's company is manimaceramics.com, where individual workshops and group sessions are available. The next one is from 20-23 September - a ceramic workshop facilitated by Magda for a small group.

During my visit, I found that Montasola offers the magic of quiet space. Gazing into the distance while sitting on a bench overlooking the valley, I felt a deep sense of peace. I had the best night's sleep in a long time, awoke to the song of birds, and felt restored.