Montasola: An Individual Ceramic workshop with Magda Toth
- Csilla Toldy
- Apr 27
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 28
Montasola is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Italy’s Lazio region. I landed in Rome Fiomucino Airport and after an hour train journey I arrived in Poggio Mirteto. Magda collected me and after a half an hour journey we parked the car at to foot of the Borgo (castle).
Inside the town there are no cars, vehicles, you walk from place to place through the maze or alleyways, steps and piazzi. The morning opened the wide blue sky and my view over the Sabina mountains.
The first day walks in Montasola
One of Montasola’s greatest draws is its network of scenic hiking trails. I did not have time for those, but made a mental note to recommend the trip to my son who loves to hike. We walked around the town and down to the Park, where we had breakfast. The park has a chapel as well as an amphitheatre where the local amdram company often performs. It is also used for concerts and performances with a backdrop of the mountains, cypress trees emanating their scent. At the end of April, the sun is already warm during the day, you only need a jersey in the shade. I loved the pizza bread filled with mortadella and mozzarella, getting used to the lull at the end of words, starting to sing in Italian.
Magda's house is no 1 Via St Michele Arcangelo. Opposite her door the church Santi Pietro e Tomasso, next door the bar where we could order continental breakfast for the next day, further down the Municipale, a photographic gallery and a museum, the library, etc. Culture seems to be spiralling around her home with her ceramic studio on one of the lower levels in her many levelled house.
Partying a la Italian
We spent Saturday afternoon at Montepiano, the ranch of Letizia whose 70th birthday we celebrated with a large group of friends. The food, wine company and party quiz were all good fun.
We started working on my object the same night. The goal was to transfer a 2D image from my film Axis Mundi onto the concave walls of two clay semi-spheres prepared by Magdi. We did it by printing the paint on with thin paper, then painted the trees by hand. I had experimented with 3D photography at home as well, but using imagination proved to be the best device.
The semi-spheres had to be burnt at 960 degrees in the kiln for 8 hours.
On Day 2 we travelled to the nearby town Rochetta, a much less developed "borgo" town, where we walked through the river Aia in our crocks, admiring waterfalls and reflections on the washed out rock formations.
Returning to the studio we lifted out the objects from the kiln and glazed them all over. They had to be burnt again on 1180 degree celsius for nearly 10 hours.
Visiting Letizia at her house was a delight. She gave me the text of her whole walking tour, some 13 pages to read in Italian. Letizia's family lived here for generations. She owns many buildings and runs air B&B-s, acts as a tourist guide in the town and produces wonderful lavender essential oils and olive oil on her land. A woman of stature who said goodbye to me with kissing both cheeks, the Italian way.
For walkers there are many opportunities:
The Monte Gennaro Trail
This trail leads you up Monte Gennaro, the highest peak in the area. The hike takes about three hours round trip and rewards you with sweeping views of the Sabina countryside. Along the way, you’ll pass ancient stone walls and wildflowers that bloom in spring. Early morning is the best time to start, as the air is fresh and the light soft.
The Olive Grove Path
For a more relaxed experience, the Olive Grove Path offers a peaceful walk through centuries-old olive trees. This trail is perfect for photography enthusiasts and nature lovers. You can stop at local farms to learn about olive oil production and even sample fresh oil pressed on-site.
Walking tours in town
Montasola itself is a living museum of history and tradition. Narrow cobblestone streets, ancient churches, medieval hospital and pharmacy, and stone houses that inspired a story set here a long time ago.
If I stayed longer, I would take out my drawing book. There are so many little nooks where one could sit in the shade and draw the ancient stone buildings. The contrast of light and dark offered many opportunities to take pictures.
An old palace is being refurbished to become la Casa di Cultura and I hope to return one day alone or with a group of writers for a writing retreat.
Artist Workshops
Magda's company is manimaceramics.com, where individual workshops as well as groups attend. The next one is in May 11-16 - Motion in Nature Mosaic workshop facilitated with Laura O'Hagan Irish mosaic artist.
During my visit, I found that Montasola offers the magic of quiet space. Gazing into the distance, sitting on a bench overlooking the valley, I felt a deep sense of peace. I had the best night's sleep in a long time, awoke to the song of birds and felt restored.
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